WE DO PRESSURE AND LEAK DETECTION!!!
Leak detection is usually a process, unless there is some kind of acute trauma (i.e. hail damage, a rock fell and damaged the surface, broke a line while digging, etc.) where the problem is easily identifiable. When establishing that there is a leak the first thing to do is establish how much water is leaking during a 24 hour period. Some water loss is a result of evaporation. To take that out of the equation we do what's called a "bucket test" where we fill a 5 gallon bucket around 1/2 way with water and mark the level on the inside of the bucket, and then set it on a step in the pool and mark the water level on the outside of the bucket as well. Leave it for 24 hours, and check the results. If the water loss on the outside of the bucket, exceeds the water loss on the inside of the bucket, it indicates there IS in fact a leak somewhere in the pool, and it's not just evaporation. At this point, we would see how much water is being lost per day (24 hr period.)
Once we know there is a leak, we would look for any visible signs of water loss at the equipment pad area, as well as in any skimmers, around the pool perimeter, in skimmer boxes, around any fittings, etc. If there are no noticeable cracks or un accounted for moisture, we would generally isolate all the skimmers and returns and wait another 24 hours. If the water level does not change, it indicates the leak is in a skimmer or return line underground. From that point we would fill the lines with water while they are capped, and inject air while listening with a geophone (pictured in the photo top right) through the deck, to literally "listen" for the leak by hearing the air bubbling out of the pipe at the point of the leak.
If the water level were to continue to drop with the lines plugged it would signal that he leak was in the pool shell, light or main drains. The best way to determine this is just to let the pool leak down and see where it stops. If it is in the shell or at a pool light, the water level will stop leaking at that level. When it stops we can inspect the surface just over where it stopped. If it is in the main drain it will eventually drain all the way down to a few inches over the main drain. Although the main drain is probably the most costly and difficult leak to repair, it is also the least common of the above mentioned other potential options. Feel free to reach out to us and discuss your specific situation! We are happy to help with your leak detection/repair needs!